Francesca Biagioli A French investigation reveals the presence of PFAS, potentially harmful chemicals, in cosmetics from famous brands such as L'Oréal, Kiko, Lancôme, Avène and others
TheConversation about PFAS, otherwise more commonly known as “forever chemicals” due to their persistence in the environment, is getting louder. Known for their principal uses in industries such as textiles and household goods-the well-known non-stick pan comes to mind, for example-these substances have cropped up in certain places that may raise an eyebrow, including cosmetics.
PFAS in popular cosmetics brands
Some of the well-recognized brands, including Lancôme, L’Oréal, and Kiko, were found to use PFAS in some products, an investigation by the French publication Vert shows.
The discovery of PFAS in more than one hundred products that were sold online in France focuses the attention on the issue that widely used beauty items such as lipsticks, blushes, moisturizers, and sunscreens include at least one PFAS compound; this raises concerns for health effects.
The most prevalent chemical was PTFE, popularly known as Teflon. Teflon has been widely known to be durable and waterproof. PTFE was found in Lancôme. This included L’Absolu Rouge Drama Matte and Blush Subtil. Application of Teflon on lips makes it probable that a person may end up ingesting it. The result is long-term health complications.
The Italian cosmetics brand Kiko sells a “perfect brow” palette, for example, which contains PTFE – another PFAS, polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy difluoroethyl peg phosphate raises further questions over its safety on such sensitive areas around the eyes. Methyl perfluoroisobutyl ether, another PFAS, is used in Kiko’s purifying mask. According to Vert, Kiko Cosmetics’ CEO and PR office did not respond to questions about these ingredients.
Finally, the list included PTFE in Avène’s Tinted Mineral Fluid SPF 50+ sunscreen.
PFAS and “lifting” effects
The use of PFAS in cosmetics is not all about waterproofing. Some are in use to make a sort of “lifting” effect on the skin.
Vert cross-referenced the ingredient lists from the manufacturer’s websites against the list of 35 PFAS that the FDA reported were used in cosmetics. He found that L’Oréal was among the biggest users of such compounds.
The company’s best-selling Revitalift line included day and night creams, SPF30 moisturizing cream, and hydrating serums containing acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine-a PFAS compound. This molecule helped block water loss from the skin, creating a subtle “plumping” effect, a key part of the anti-aging benefit.
Although these compounds have proven to be very useful, the safety of these compounds is being called into question. In response to a request for clarification, L’Oréal said it had already begun to phase out PFAS beginning 2018 and would do away with them entirely by the end of 2025.
Another brand from the L’Oréal group, Biotherm, uses PFAS: for example, polyperfluoromethylisopropyl ether, added to a number of moisturizers. In turn, Yves Saint-Laurent Beauty introduced perfluorononyl dimethicone in one of the eyeliners. This already shows the wide application of such compounds within the broad class of the cosmetics industry.
Why are PFAS dangerous?
They have been known to persist in the environment, accumulating for hundreds of years and linked to severe health risks, including cancers, thyroid problems, and infertility. Research at the University of Birmingham found that PFAS can be absorbed through the skin into the bloodstream, raising further concerns about their use in cosmetic products.
This problem is especially alarming for young consumers, as PFAS is an endocrine disruptor. The so-called “Sephora Kids” trend does not lag behind, which creates additional concern regarding beauty products being deliberately presented to very young girls and teenagers.
Laurence Coiffard, Professor of Pharmacy, Expert in Cosmetology, University of Nantes, France:
“These are products for grown-ups, not for children, whose hormone system is working quite actively.”
Vert continues to explain:
“While we did not find PFAS in Sephora’s own products, the chain sells numerous cosmetics from other brands that contain PFAS. These include items from Natasha Denona-branded PTFE in some eyeshadows, MAC-in mascara, Charlotte Tilbury-in an eyeliner, and Laneige-tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate in a serum is a brand popular among teens and promoted by Sephora on TikTok. The Sephora PR department has yet to respond to our inquiries.
It’s still legal
Though the health risks of PFAS are increasingly known, the ingredients are still legal in cosmetics. Recently, a bill was introduced by Green MP Nicolas Thierry in France to ban the manufacture and importation of PFAS in various products, including cosmetics.
However, the bill is not yet in effect, and millions of consumers worldwide remain exposed to these chemicals through daily use of cosmetic products.
The European Union is making a stride toward a ban on PFAS, though that process remains piecemeal: “Stop EU’s PFAS, but new restrictions still allow exceptions.”
PFAS in cosmetics: how to avoid them
The investigation names the brands; it not only names brands but also nudges consumers to read ingredient lists and to pick products with valid certifications, eliminating these toxic products.
Checking a list or choosing a product certified from Cosmébio, an EU Ecolabel, or Ecocert can easily avoid the toxicity.
Article: “PFAS in moisturizers, lipsticks, and nail polishes: How to choose safer beauty products.”
The other warning given to consumers is to be highly cautious of claims. Vert argues that “organic” or “eco-friendly” labels often refer to single certified ingredients rather than the entire product.
Source: Vert
