Francesca Biagioli A new test analyzing several Shein products for adults and children reveals, once again, the presence of toxic chemicals in clothes and shoes
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The controversial world of fast fashion is back in the spotlight, with a particular focus on Shein, the Chinese giant known for its low-cost clothing. The brand has been repeatedly criticized for using toxic chemicals in its products and for exploiting labor.
A recent test conducted by the German consumer magazine Öko-Test confirmed long-standing concerns: most products sold by Shein are not safe. Specifically, the test revealed that two-thirds of the items tested failed to meet safety standards.
The investigation sampled 21 clothing items sold on Shein, targeting different age groups:
- 5 women’s garments
- 4 men’s garments
- 4 garments for teenagers
- 4 children’s garments
- One pair of shoes for each age group
Laboratories tested for a range of hazardous substances in Shein products, including:
- Aromatic amines from azo dyes
- Organochlorine compounds
- Optical brighteners
- PVC/PVDC/chlorinated compounds
- Extractable heavy metals (cadmium, arsenic, antimony, lead)
- Phthalates
- Dimethylformamide
- Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs)
- Siloxanes (D4, D5, D6) in children’s shoe soles
- Organotin compounds
- Formaldehyde
Beyond chemical testing, the durability of fabrics and footwear was also assessed. This included resistance to saliva and sweat, and the quality of clothing after three washes and dries, as per the label instructions. The shoe soles were tested for flexibility endurance.
A critical aspect of the investigation focused on the working conditions of those producing Shein’s fashion. Öko-Test sent the company a comprehensive questionnaire for each product, seeking information on labor conditions, the origin of cotton (specifically if it came from Xinjiang, where the UN reports forced labor of the Uyghur Muslim minority), fair wages throughout the supply chain, and whether there were any restrictions on chemicals used in production through a Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL).
The results
Of the 21 items tested, only a third received a barely passing grade, with most scoring poorly.
The analyses revealed numerous pollutants, including antimony, dimethylformamide, lead, cadmium, banned phthalates, naphthalene, and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). These findings are alarming, considering the widespread availability of Shein products, especially among young people and children.
Among the most concerning discoveries was the presence of toxic antimony in children’s clothing: a unicorn-patterned dress released this substance in a simulated sweat solution. German experts noted that antimony residues could be absorbed through the skin and are highly toxic if they enter the bloodstream.
Dimethylformamide, a substance potentially harmful to fertility, was found in a brightly colored dress for teenagers.
The sandals fared no better: two pairs contained lead and cadmium levels far exceeding the European Union’s REACH regulations.
Regarding phthalates in the sandals, German experts noted:
“We were stunned by what the laboratory found in these Shein women’s sandals in terms of banned phthalates: the content exceeds the not-too-strict REACH limit by 15 times. The phthalates detected are suspected to harm reproductive organs and act like a hormone according to EU classification. These compounds can damage the fetus in the womb and impair fertility.”
Fortunately, German experts observed that Shein shoes are unlikely to remain in contact with customers’ feet for long. The soles of the women’s sandals broke after about 14,000 simulated steps, while the men’s sandals wore out after only 5,700 steps. Considering the recommendation of walking 10,000 steps a day, these products would deteriorate in just over half a day!
This is also a significant environmental issue: these toxic waste products, like most of Shein’s offerings, are discarded quickly, contributing to pollution.
Where do Shein clothes come from?
Shein was also criticized for lacking transparency regarding worker conditions.
Although the company is headquartered in Singapore, its clothes are produced in approximately 5,000 Chinese factories, but this is nearly all the information Shein provides about its production.
In an effort to obtain more details, Öko-Test sent a comprehensive questionnaire to the company for each product, asking, for example, if Shein ensures fair wages and compliance with basic standards on child labor throughout all production stages.
They also requested information on the regulation of chemicals used in fabric production and whether the cotton comes from Xinjiang, where the United Nations reports the use of around one million forced laborers. However, Shein did not respond to these critical inquiries.
Influencers who enthusiastically promote Shein products through videos on Instagram, YouTube, and TikTok, often sponsored by the company, are likely unaware of these issues and, in effect, contribute to the spread of potentially dangerous products and exploitative labor practices. Hopefully, with the increasing number of tests and analyses on fast fashion, they will soon be better informed and reconsider their endorsements.
Source: Öko-Test
